If you want to change print speed in Bambu Studio, it matters whether the print has already started. There are three separate ways, and it is easy to mix up what each one does. In short: before the print, the process profile or the detailed settings. During the print, the speed mode on the printer's screen.
1. During the print: speed mode
This is how you change speed once a print is running. Tap the speed indicator on the printer's screen, in the Bambu Handy app, or on the Device tab in Bambu Studio and pick one of four modes:
| Mode | Effect |
|---|---|
| Silent | Slower than Standard, quieter |
| Standard | Default, 100% |
| Sport | Faster than Standard |
| Ludicrous | Fastest mode |
These modes scale the speeds in the sliced G-code by a multiplier, so you do not have to re-slice and the change takes effect immediately.
When it is useful: the print has started, the first layers are noisy or shaky, and you drop to Silent. Or a long print is running, you are in a hurry, and you go up to Sport.
Try Ludicrous on a short print first if the surface matters. The slicer can't show you what it does to quality; the print will.
Silent may have one more thing going for it. According to one measurement, its layer adhesion comes out higher than Standard's. The details are in volumetric speed and part strength.
2. Before the print: choosing a profile
The process profile in the right panel sets the speed as well, though not the way the names suggest:
| Profile | Layer | Inner wall / sparse infill (X1C, A1) |
|---|---|---|
| 0.08mm Extra Fine | 0.08 mm | 350 / 450 mm/s |
| 0.12mm Fine | 0.12 mm | 350 / 430 mm/s |
| 0.20mm Standard | 0.20 mm | 300 / 270 mm/s |
| 0.28mm Extra Draft | 0.28 mm | 200 / 200 mm/s |
Outer walls run 200 mm/s in all four. The fine presets are not slower in mm/s; they take longer because there are more layers. The H2D is the exception: its 0.08 and 0.12 presets print outer walls at 60 mm/s and infill at 100. Why an H2D can slice PETG HF slower than an A1, and when the layer cooling slowdown is safe to turn off, is in slow printing down for better layer cooling.
Changing the profile changes layer height as well as speed, and layer height is what really moves print time. Going from 0.20 to 0.28 shortens the job noticeably because there are fewer layers to print. Where ready-made profiles come from and how to pick one is in MakerWorld print profiles.
3. Detailed speed settings
In the Prepare tab, open the process settings and look under Speed. Every type of move has its own setting there:
| Setting | For what |
|---|---|
| Initial layer speed | First layer: kept low for adhesion |
| Outer wall | The visible surface: quality shows here |
| Inner wall | Internal walls: can be fast |
| Sparse infill | Infill: the fastest part to print |
| Travel | Non-printing moves: no effect on quality, can be high |
Raising everything at once is the wrong approach. Keeping the outer wall slow and the infill fast shortens the job and protects the visible surface at the same time.
Leave the first-layer speed alone. The default is low for a reason. If the first layer does not stick, everything after it is wasted.
Raising speed does not always shorten the print
Making the number bigger does not mean the printer will print at that speed. The real limit is how much plastic the hotend can melt, and once you are up against it the speed setting changes nothing. The numbers are worked out in the flow article.
What actually shortens a print, in order:
- Increasing layer height
- Going up in nozzle diameter
- Reducing infill
- Filling the plate and printing many parts at once
- Raising the speed number
The last one is at the bottom because it does the least.
